Monday, July 27, 2009

Steamboat Springs


I'm a lot more prone to sudden road trips these days than ever before in my life.

Saturday morning after the farmer's market, we were putting away the produce when I said, "Grab the tent. Let's go to Steamboat."

And off we went.

North Central Colorado was one of the last regions of the state we had never set foot in. I had always heard the area around Steamboat is one of the last vestiges of the old west, with sprawling old-tyme ranches and lots of green summer grass, thanks to the nearly 350 inches of annual snowfall. (Yes, that's right; nearly 30 feet of snow each year.) It's late July so we didn't see any snow (except on distant mountain peaks) but I was able to verify first hand the accounts of those ranches. When I make my millions, I think I'm going to Steamboat.

There is a lot of geothermal activity in the area of Steamboat Springs, which produces a lot of hot springs. One such spring, the so-called Steamboat spring, gurgled and steamed like the vessel it is named for. It was, naturally, blasted into oblivion during railroad construction in the early 20th century. (I'm reminded of the most apt description of suburbia I've ever heard: SUBURBIA: WHERE THE TREES ARE BULLDOZED AND THE STREETS ARE NAMED AFTER THEM.)

Still, plenty of other springs remain. If you're ever in the area, I highly recommend stopping by Strawberry Park to soak in the hot springs. It is absolutely gorgeous. Unlike many other springs that have been tapped for a buck, this one was, at least, very tastefully done. The springs flow in steamy cascades down to a number of man-made pools, all built of natural stone from the mountain. The waters are clear and not chemically treated, and the bottom of the pools are natural stone and sand. There is also a cold water stream running through the whole thing, and the waters mix in various pools so guests have the option of soaking in a range of water temperatures. It's all very natural and outdoorsy, and there are massage therapists, teepees for changing, deer grazing in the grassy areas, a sort of outdoor sauna, and the whole thing is clothing optional after dark. We'll definitely be back.

We also had the best BBQ I've yet had outside of Texas. We also hit a few shops, hiked the breathtaking Fish Creek Falls, camped in Routt National Forest, and discovered Winona's, a breakfast place whose cinnamon rolls have been featured in numerous gourmet magazines. I can confirm they're as delicious as they're touted to be. (I'm sorry Upper Crust Bakery of Austin, your famous cinnamon rolls have fallen to a distant second place.)

On the way home we had a particularly nice surprise when we spotted three bull moose, two of which were enormous, grazing just off the road. I could only get two of them in one snapshot.

As I write this, there is a perfect double rainbow stretching from horizon to horizon. A cool front is coming through and the high tomorrow is only supposed to be around 70 degrees. The smell of warm cherry pie is wafting from the kitchen, mixing with the damp smell of a cool afternoon rainstorm. I never want to take for granted all the simple, unexpected pleasures that make life really sweet. I am so grateful.

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